I wasn't quite sure what to expect when I realized we would be moving to Los Angeles. I had visited here once before, in 2004, and I must admit, I was mostly put off by the city. Driving in from San Diego for the first time, I got hooked on the beauty of California, with the ocean, desert and mountains. Then we hit Orange County and the 405. Coming down those hills and seeing the LA basin filled with nothing but city and smog was disgusting for me. Then we hit the traffic...bumper to bumper on a Saturday morning. I established my first opinion on the city as a den of hypocrisy. I stated how ridiculous it was that people claim to be environmentally conscious and friendly here, yet they have an obsession with driving and some of the most polluted air in the country; how ridiculous it was that you have all of these celebrities "contributing" to the plight of the poor around the world, but doing little to nothing for those just a few miles away in Skid Row; how they claim to have some of the best and brightest working in the various high-tech industries that have set up in state, yet at the polls they continually screw themselves with terrible representation and governance that has literally driven one of the largest economies in the world into the ground. Having lived here now for nine months, I couldn't have been farther from the truth. All those things are true here, but that is a result of long and interesting history and the fact that there are just SO many people living out here! You truly have a little of everything, and you can find and focus on whatever you want. With that in mind, I'm finding so much that I do enjoy and appreciate and am really starting to enjoy living here.
The picture above is an original Banksy...the (in)famous street artist. Note, that the original piece consists of the boy with the machine gun with crayon bullets and the childish, bright flower and butterfly drawings around him. L.A. is one of his frequent haunts, and whenever he makes a visit, his randomly scattered works of art receive a lot of attention and press. Some pieces have even been cut out of the facades to be sold on the black market! It was neat to see this just a few days after he had put it up...especially since Urban Outfitters, on whose store the graffiti was posted, painted over it within a week. I can definitely recommend his movie, "Please exit through the gift shop" for a unique perspective on Banksy's art and glimpses into his world view and sense of humor and wit.
Starting in downtown...I don't take pictures in Skid Row, since I find it may be offensive to the many people who live there. I must say though, every visitor to LA should experience a walk through Skid Row...it is terribly eye opening and, when contrasted with the mansions, shops, and cars in Beverly Hills, is a prime example of just how extreme the divide is between rich and poor in LA. Downtown used to be a place to avoid, but it is an "up and coming" part of the city now. I really enjoy wandering around down there. The architecture is great, a neat mix of old and new with a lot of nostalgic, golden-era type buildings and theaters. The picture above shows the skyscrapers on Bunker Hill, a much despised financial fortress-district that is incredibly unfriendly for pedestrians (possibly deliberately so).
The LA Times building. Downtown is a bizarre and intriguing mix of expensive, massive structures and little pockets of awesomeness, Olvera Street, Little Tokyo, Chinatown, Walt Disney Concert Hall, Grand Central Market, and the Fashion District to name a few. There are some great bars and restaurants around too. It's surprisingly walkable (outside of Bunker Hill) too, though there are probably still some areas you'd want to avoid at night.
Olvera Street...the original LA. This street is testament to LA's Mexican heritage, and now it is a large open air Mexican market. There are some great restaurants and food stalls around here too!
The LA Grand Central Market between Broadway and Hill downtown. This place is AMAZING! Food vendors and stalls from all over the world. Obviously the Latin American nations are very well represented, but there are also Middle Eastern, European, and Asian specialty shops and eatery's as well. This is truly a gem.
Food trucks, an LA institution. These guys are EVERYWHERE and they are delicious! Most of them are either ethnic or specialty (like burgers, fries, or grilled cheese...yes there is The Grilled Cheese Truck). My favorite though are the fusion ones...particularly the Mexican-Asian hybrids. I mean, I guess it is only natural...having such a beautiful mix of cultures and people here, you're going to get a lot of interracial marriages (which is awesome and may partially explain the abundance of really good looking people here), and with those mixed couples will come the mixing of those cultural foods. All I can say is the first Mexican-Korean couple to blend Korean BBQ with Mexican tacos are my heroes.
Speaking of iconic architecture...the LA Police Dept. This building is massive and imposing, with practically no windows (symbolism anyone?). The LAPD is a true force in the city...they even boast tanks (really armored vehicles) and gunship helicopters. Hopefully they learned a lot about restrained force from the Rodney King Riots in 1992.
Downtown during the Red Bull Soapbox Derby races. There is always something fun going on in the city. Missy and I spent the first 8 months here and only left the city one weekend to go surfing in San Clemente (when we weren't traveling that is). We kept saying we wanted to check out other places (like the Sierras, Santa Barbara, San Diego, up and down the coast, the desert, etc), but there was always something great to do in town!
The Bradbury Building...on Broadway amongst the crumbling and dilapidated old theaters is this architectural wonder...a must see and totally free to wander around.
The Walt Disney Concert Hall...this place is amazing. Designed by Frank Gehry (seriously AMAZING architect...just google his name to check out his other works). You can spend a couple hours just wandering around this place, inside and out, though you need tickets to see the main concert hall, which I've heard is incredible as well!
Now, beyond downtown another architectural masterpiece: Watts Towers. Built over 33 years in the first half of the last century by an Italian immigrant and construction worker, Sabato Rodia, these complex structures peak at nearly 100 feet tall. They are constructed of cement and a variety of random materials, mostly collected scraps of garbage that have been so uniquely recycled here. Interesting decorations include pieces of colored glass, bottles, cans, jars, dishes, cups, tiles, and imprints from various objects like hammers and hands. The whole thing was structurally tested for stability before it was protected as a heritage site. The structures rise up out of the Watts area...a terribly impoverished area of the infamous south-central LA region.
A closer view at some of the random features in the Watts Towers.
A view of Griffith Observatory and downtown LA from Griffith Park, truly one of the highlights of the city! This is supposedly the larges metropolitan park in the United States, and it has some great peaceful spots, hiking trails, and bike paths. The observatory is an added gem; it is free to the public and has a great variety of science exhibitions. They also do free planet and star viewing with their large telescopes at night!
As close to Hollywood as this post is getting. Taken from Century City and the Annenburg Space for Photography, a brilliant, and free, gallery of photography. I really don't like Hollywood too much; the main drag is an awful example of tourism gone bad...it reminds me a lot of Niagara Falls actually. There are some redeeming qualities though. There is a pretty interesting theater district, some genuinely great clubs and bars for live music, and movies and music in the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. It's just another example of how shifting your perspective and focusing on things you enjoy can overcome some truly negative aspects of the LA area.
A building at the Annenburg Space...it was supposedly designed to reflect a camera...pretty neat. Another great visit is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). We were there just recently for the amazing Tim Burton exhibit, with over 700 pieces of original art by the famous Hollywood director. There are multiple galleries there though, and we just barely scratched the surface with our wander through the special exhibit and the gallery of modern art. Nearby are the La Brea tar pits, another interesting and bizarre feature of the area. After these, you can grab a delicious and authentic Ethiopian dinner in Little-Ethiopia on S. Fairfax.
Views of the Hollywood Hills and the Griffith Observatory (big white building) in the foreground with the snow-covered San Gabriel mountains in behind and GoodYear blimp above. This was also taken from the Getty Center on a clear day after rains. I would highly recommend visits to either the Getty Center or Griffith Observatory on days after rains, when the basin is most free of the disgusting smog.
The Getty Center...another wonderful, and free, center of culture. There are various art and historical galleries in this massive complex, but these are just an added bonus on the incredible architecture, beautifully manicured grounds, and overwhelming views of the LA basin and Hollywood hills.
Onto the Westside now...the beautiful and peaceful Venice canals. Venice Beach has entirely it's own vibe...extremely bizarre, hip, chill, and vibrant. Wander just a few blocks in and you stumble upon the practically opposite world of the canals. Wandering around these canals and taking in the peaceful atmosphere and interesting hodge-podge of incredibly expensive homes is definitely amongst the best walks in the LA area.
As I already mentioned, each house is quite unique, which just adds to the interesting atmosphere. Some obviously embrace exhibitionism while others surround their places with dense foliage to maintain privacy. The exhibitionists have a lot to boast though...most of the places have massive patios, balconies, and/or porches to relax outside. Most houses have lots of windows on the canal sides and many even have sliding walls to allow them to open up entire sides of their homes to the open and beautiful Southern California coastal air.
And our local haunt, Santa Monica. This is the great Farmers Market that takes over Arizona Ave. every Wednesday and Saturday. Doing some shopping here and enjoying a nice stroll along the pedestrian-only 3rd Street Promenade makes for a brilliant start to a Saturday.
The Palisades Park on the bluffs above the beach...just a short walk from our place and a favorite place to go relax. This is looking North, with the Santa Monica Mountains in the background. I absolutely love it here; it's peaceful and so beautiful.
The Santa Monica Pier...I'm not a big fan of the pier itself, which again is another example of tourism gone wrong with cheap shops, big unoriginal chains (Bubba Gump Shrimp has set up there), and a variety of opportunistic buskers. Once again, there are redeeming qualities...during the summer they do a series of free concerts and movies at the pier. It's so much fun to pack a picnic and some beer or wine and go relax down on the beach below the pier and enjoy the free shows!
There is this impressive cliff at Point Dume, which is ideal for top-rope climbing since you can walk up the back side!
Enjoying sunset from Point Dume, some surfers can be seen out in the water catching some evening waves.
Down south now in Huntington Beach for the US Open of Surfing. This is a picture of none other than Kelly Slater, possibly the greatest surfer to ever live and indisputably the most highly decorated in world championship victories.
These guys displayed some amazing control and maneuverability on their short boards, despite the only small-to-medium waves.
There was also a long-board hang ten competition, where competitors get extra points for their ability to walk to the front of the board and dangle all ten toes off the front lip. This is not an easy feat...the board must be positioned just right in a wave to counterbalance the weight of the surfer out on the front edge. The pic above shows a surfer seemingly floating above the face of the wave he's riding...it was an incredibly impressive display of skill.
We had a little bit of entertaining showmanship as well including two surfers getting onto the same board (having started on two separate boards, meeting up mid wave, and then transitioning onto one board and successfully riding it out) as shown above and the handstand seen below.