31 May 2008

Dublin, Ireland


The Dublin Post Office. This was one of the first landmarks we saw when we got off of the airport bus on O'Connell St., but Missy and I had very little idea how important it was to Irish history at the time.


The Spike and the Post Office...the Spike being the other major landmark along O'Connell St. that we first noticed when getting to the city center.


The Dublin Spire, aka: the Spike or the "Stiffy by the Liffey", was the winner of an architectural competition to replace the old Nelson's Column, which was mysteriously blown up in the middle of a 1966 night. The original column was erected in 1808, but apparently someone in Dublin wasn't too happy about its English origin or meaning. In true form of all things phallic, this newer structure was taller than the original and was proudly erected between 2002 and 2003; this new spire, at 120 m, would tower over the old column, which measured up at a mere 41 m.


The South end of O'Connell St. and Daniel O'Connell's statue. O'Connell St. is the main street of the North-side of Dublin, and it is one of the widest streets in Europe. Looking at the street today, it is very difficult to picture what the street looked like after the 1916 Easter Rising, when the British used heavy artillery on the city center, killing around 450 and leveling almost all of the structures that stood where you now see buildings standing in this picture.


The River Liffey...the heart and sole of Dublin...literally: the river runs through the heart of the city, but is a tidal river and absolutely filthy. This river is the reason the city is here today. Dublin was founded in the 800's as a Viking "settlement", and by "settlement", I mean a staging point for all that good, old-fashioned, Viking-style raping and pillaging throughout the Irish countryside.



St. Patrick's Cathedral...of course, under renovations. This old beauty was founded in 1191, and has seen everything from Archbishops to horseshit, as it was used by the English, namelyThomas Cromwell, as a stable for his cavalry. Thankfully, it was restored by Benjamin Guinness (yes the son of Arthur Guinness, the brewer of...well...you know) in the 1860's.


Just some flowers in the afternoon sun at the park outside of St. Patrick's. Missy and I basked in the sun here for an hour or so to take a bit of the edge off of our jet-lag.


Trinity College. Amazingly beautiful and right in the city center, though you could never be able to tell standing in its central lawns, which are totally cut off from the rest of the city by the college's main buildings.


Dublin Castle...the English "governed" Ireland from here until 1922, when the Irish Free State was established. The round tower is all that remains of the original castle that was built in the 13th century.


Chapel Royal, the old Anglican chapel, which became a Roman Catholic church in 1943, but it is no longer in use.


Some of the bright colors on the modern castle exterior. I absolutely loved how the Irish painted their buildings all sorts of vibrant, and random, shades.


Christ Church Cathedral. This is the older of the two famous Dublin cathedrals (the other being St. Patrick's), as it's construction was started in 1038. Missy and I went inside here, and we were absolutely floored by its beauty...I especially so by its, well, floors. The flooring was a massive geometric mosaic of small, brightly colored tiles. I loved it. The crypt was quite impressive as well...the largest cathedral crypt in Britain and Ireland. The cathedral also displays some pretty interesting artifacts, tombs, and random collectibles. Most notable amongst these are the tomb of Strongbow, which isn't the actual tomb that was destroyed in an old structural collapse (ironic that they still boast this tomb considering Strongbow was one of the first British warlords to establish English rule over Ireland), and the mummified remains of a cat and a rat that were found inside one of the organ's massive pipes.


Some of Dublin's famous Georgian doors. Reading about Georgian architecture as the "height of Irish architecture", I was really looking forward to something impressive. Instead, I found bright doors with intricate door frames stuck onto disturbingly bland, brick boxes. Oh well, the doors were pretty cool.



This was by far the most intricate one we found.


Temple Bar: Dublin's place for tourists to go drinking (for 5 to 7 Euro, US$7.50 - 11.00, a pint). Missy and I split one at The Temple Bar (see below) before hitting up a Dublin Pub that actually had real Dubliners in it on the north side of the Liffey. The pub was called the Cobblestone, and it is locally quite well known for its great traditional music sessions...which are especially good on Thursday night. All I can say is that we met real Irish people there...which I can almost guarantee could not be said for the hundreds of tourists cramming into the various Temple Bar establishments.



We saw some great Guinness signs.


At US$22 per person to get in, unfortunately we had to skip the Guinness Storehouse tour. I already know quite well how beer is made, and we could get a pint for a lot cheaper elsewhere. I must admit though, the rumors are true: the Guinness, Murphy's, Kilkenny, and other Irish draughts are much, much better there in Ireland than anywhere else.


Four Courts...impressive dome.


Prison graffiti inside Kilmainham Gaol. For only US$4.00, this was well worth the tour. This gaol (jail by our spelling) is another hotspot of Irish Republican history.


One of the corridors in the old wing of the gaol. Kilmainham was built to replace an older form of prison, in which men, women, and children inmates were all housed in one big locked room....and knowing the stories coming out of the prisons nowadays, you can imagine how terrible that must have been (mostly for the women and children). This wing of Kilmainham was designed under the philosophy that prisoners could not be rehabilitated, only punished. Thus, the corridors and cells were not lit or heated, and there was no glass or coverings on any of the corridors barred windows (none of the cells had windows, only small holes in the doors for guards to look into). These cells would have been living hell.


And enter the Victorian wing, built under the philosophy that prisoners could be rehabilitated through exposure to natural light and complete silence. The main staircase and walkways you see in the center was for guards only. All food was cooked in the kitchens underneath this area, which would have been warm. Being imprisoned here would be like staying at a 4 star resort compared to the old wing.



The circular stair seen here is the staircase that the prisoners had to use when they were allowed to move about. A circular staircase is very difficult to maneuver in case any of them had any desire to make a break for it.


Guard's staircase again: straight and easy to maneuver to get about quickly in case of trouble (i.e. one of the prisoners tumbling down the circular staircase because they decided to make a break for it).


In the courtyard/stone cutting area. This Republic of Ireland flag and a plaque stand to honor the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, all of whom were imprisoned here at Kilmainham (most of them in the old wings) before being executed in this very courtyard. These executions are one of the most important in a chain of events that led up the the Irish Free State of 1922. The Easter Rising took place from April 24 - 30, 1916 in Dublin. The leaders established their headquarters in the General Post Office (seen in the first picture on this post), and it was from there that the Proclamation of the Republic, which was a declaration of independence from British rule, was read by Patrick Pearse. I've already mentioned that the British quickly resorted to using heavy artillery against the Republicans, as well as Dublin civilians, and the Rising was put down after six days of fighting, both in and out of Dublin.


One of two crosses set in the courtyard on the place where the Easter Rising leaders were executed. One of them, James Connolly, was so badly injured by his British interrogators, that he had to be brought to the gaol in a military ambulance, carried to the courtyard in a stretcher, and then tied to a chair to be shot. These executions made quick martyrs of the Rising leaders, and Connolly's execution especially, in the fact that he was so badly beaten that he was unable to even stand and face his doom, outraged the Irish people. It would be very interesting, if they were alive to see Ireland today, to hear what they have to say about its burgeoning economy, full independence, position in the EU, and the fact that Northern Ireland is still a part of the United Kingdom...

12 April 2008

Arches National Park, Utah



Arches National Park, Utah, USA. Missy and I decided to take a long weekend in November and road trip the ~6 hour drive to Moab, Utah to see the desert, which Missy had never seen before, and check out Arches National Park. It was an absolutely amazing trip, and hopefully these pictures can do it some justice. The picture above is of Navajo Arch in the northern area of the park.


Another out of order picture, but another good one to start this post off. Check out the two guys standing on the top of that central rock...I love this picture for its stereotypical western outdoors-man feel. It also gives a great sense of the sheer magnitude and remoteness of the region. The area around Moab is ideal for anyone who loves the great outdoors, particularly hiking, rock climbing, 4x4ing, and mountain biking.


We took a scenic detour on the way to Moab cutting down along Utah Rd. 128 instead of the faster I-70 to US 191. This road initially cuts off the highway into the desert, taking you directly through the eerie ghost town of Cisco. Driving through there, even in broad daylight, was like something out of a horror film (a la Texas Chainsaw Massacre or The Hills Have Eyes... you know, those ones that are so much more terrifying because crazy inbred cannibals might actually exist, and quite ideally in places like Cisco where the random travelers on a road trip to see Utah's National Parks happen to drive through on this "scenic route"). I was praying we didn't have car troubles. Anyway, after getting through Cisco (which turns out to have an interesting history...check it out on Wikipedia), you start to see these mountains in the distance and the desert starts to get more and more interesting, as can be seen from the next few pictures...




We got to Moab shortly after sunset, and the last part of the drive on UT 128 just kept getting better as the setting sun lit the naturally red and orange rock formations on fire. It was spectacular and surreal.


We spent a full day in Arches National Park, which is enough time to see most of the easily accessible parts of the park (i.e. via paved roads). Arches is a patch of the Earth that has been overly blessed in natural beauty and wonders, including literally thousands of natural arches. It's various rock formations are other worldly and awe inspiring for their grandeur.


The pictures above and below are panoramic views from a vista near the park entrance...many of the parks major features are visible in the distance. If you look close enough, you can even make out some of the arches!



The Three Gossips rock formation...these ladies are also located close to the main entrance and are absolutely massive. As I so often mention in these blog posts, few of these pictures will do justice for the sheer size of many of the parks features.


The paved roads through the park are wide and well maintained. There are also 4x4 only off-road tracks to reach the more remote regions of the park.


Balanced rock.


The Fiery Furnace way off in the distance. The amount of different colors and shapes and types of rock and rock formations in such a small area was quite remarkable.


Yep, thats me standing out there....how could I resist?


Delicate Arch across the canyon. This Arch is by far the most famous and photographed in the park and for good reason!


As you can see, the Delicate Arch is well named...the stone all around it has been eroded away, yet it's skeletal frame remains. Notice the various people running around it's base...yea...its pretty big!


Close up of the Fiery Furnace. This was one of my favorite places in the park...there were lots of voices coming out of this alien part of the landscape from the various people wandering around through its labyrinthine formations. It is part of the backcountry regions and you need to get a permit to go in to hike or camp.


Another angle of the Fiery Furnace.


Skyline Arch...this arch used to be half the size (they have photographic proof) but a massive chunk of rock fell out a while back, literally doubling the size of the arch. Missy and I climbed around on the cracked boulders that fell out. The arch itself sits about 20-30 feet up a vertical rock wall, so it would be quite difficult to stand in this arch.


The whole area, and this picture in particular, reminded me a lot of the Uluru-Kata Tjuta region at the heart of Australia. The colors and extreme sizes and shapes of the rocks brought back a flood of memories. However, Utah doesn't have the nearly blood-red sand and dunes that Australia's Red Center can boast.


Missy and I visited more than a dozen different natural arches during our day in the park, each distinctly different from the one before it. It is an amazing process that carves these arches out...a good reference if you are interested: http://www.nps.gov/arch/naturescience/geologicformations.htm


Landscape Arch: this was my favorite of the arches we saw. It is terrifyingly thin for its enormous span. There was a trail that once led up under the arch, but after a massive section collapsed (right under what is now the thinnest section of the arch, visible on the right side in this picture), the trail was closed to the public....although I must say I was VERY tempted to sneak by the "Closed Trail" sign for a closer look.


One of the many spectacular views seen while hiking through the park.


View through the Double-O Arch. The picture below shows a little better why it is called the "Double-O Arch"



Sand Dune Arch, we were back here in the mid afternoon and the light was just amazing...the rock was just glowing with this soft pink light.


Turns out those mountains we had been seeing so much of are the La Sal mountains...I hope to get back down to the region sometime to do some hiking in them.


The landscape was just so breathtaking and surreal.



This was called the Parade of Elephants.. though I must say, these elephants were something almost out of a Salvador Dali painting.


The next few pictures are meant to show a sense of scale for these arches....they are absolutely massive structures. There are people in each of the following two pictures as well as the one above.






Balanced Rock again...this time on our way back in the afternoon.


The Petrified Dunes with the La Sal mountains in the background.


On our way back home we took UT 128 again...this time we saw it all in morning sunshine and it was spectacular.



Back in beautiful Colorado!